A few weeks ago I traveled to Jerusalem to attend the Artsbridge Fall 2008 Reunion. While I was only in the area for 4 days, I saw and experienced an incredible amount. My visit was filled with both historical and cultural lessons as my students from the summer toured me around the city, invited me into their homes to meet their families, and confided in me about their lives since attending the camp in Beverly this summer.
I set out bright and early to ensure a smooth border crossing at the King Hussein Bridge- a border that had given my friends and I quite a bit of trouble when we traveled to Tel Aviv in late September. With my residency card and work permit in hand, I had a much easier time than expected- until I arrived at the Israeli side of the border. The border patrol personnel are quite skeptical and judgmental- they randomly select certain people to interrogate and hassle about entering the country. I spent quite a bit of my afternoon trying to explain what Artsbridge is, why I didn’t have my hotel reservations printed out and who I knew specifically in the area to a very cynical and unconvinced woman. Luckily I was let off the hook and joined the others fortunate enough to escape the doomful reception of the waiting forms, and merrily continue my way.
I took a service taxi to Jerusalem and upon arrival to the city, walked about aimlessly with two older gentlemen staying in the same area that I had met at the border. Being lost actually gave us a nice preliminary tour of the city and acquainted us with the local customs and people. Eventually I arrived at my hotel: the International YMCA Three Arches. With a 152 ft. high tower, the building is certainly a city landmark. The building is absolutely gorgeous, inside and out. It was designed by the famed Gregory Johnson; architect of the Empire State Building.
I set out bright and early to ensure a smooth border crossing at the King Hussein Bridge- a border that had given my friends and I quite a bit of trouble when we traveled to Tel Aviv in late September. With my residency card and work permit in hand, I had a much easier time than expected- until I arrived at the Israeli side of the border. The border patrol personnel are quite skeptical and judgmental- they randomly select certain people to interrogate and hassle about entering the country. I spent quite a bit of my afternoon trying to explain what Artsbridge is, why I didn’t have my hotel reservations printed out and who I knew specifically in the area to a very cynical and unconvinced woman. Luckily I was let off the hook and joined the others fortunate enough to escape the doomful reception of the waiting forms, and merrily continue my way.
I took a service taxi to Jerusalem and upon arrival to the city, walked about aimlessly with two older gentlemen staying in the same area that I had met at the border. Being lost actually gave us a nice preliminary tour of the city and acquainted us with the local customs and people. Eventually I arrived at my hotel: the International YMCA Three Arches. With a 152 ft. high tower, the building is certainly a city landmark. The building is absolutely gorgeous, inside and out. It was designed by the famed Gregory Johnson; architect of the Empire State Building.
As soon as I entered the lobby I found my boss, director of Artsbridge. After settling into my room and freshening up, she and I followed one of the Artsbridge reflection/dialogue facilitators to a grocery store to buy snacks and lunch food for the reunion to take place the following day. We then went to the facilitator’s home where he cooked us an absolutely exquisite meal. After a long day of traveling it was so wonderful to be in a home and engaging in meaningful and important conversation with people I hadn’t seen in months.
The next morning I headed downstairs to meet my boss and help set up for the reunion. At about 10:15 kids started arriving- it was surreal seeing all of my students from the summer! We mingled and caught up and then began a dialogue session. The kids shared about what it has been like for them since being at Artsbridge, their views on the current state of the Israeli/Palestinain conflict and what they have carried with them and what they hope to be reminded of. It was clear that they missed having these intense and enlightening conversations, and they all took full advantage of the opportunity to share and reminisce. The dialogue sessions at Artsbridge, while tense and highly emotional most of the time, became a safe haven for the students to speak, listen and observe. They became so used to participating and having the sessions as a forum for discussion over the summer, that it was extremely comforting for them to circle up during the reunion and resume the tradition.
After the reunion, a group of my students took me out to see some of the new city area. We went to one of the infamous Jewish market places, the Mahane Yehuda Market, a bargain emporium for residents and place to hangout for local teenagers. The narrow paths are lined with spice and candy counters, vegetable stalls and small bohemian coffee shops. It began to rain so we sought shelter in a bakery and indulged in local sweets. We then went to one of the student’s homes for tea and Shabbat Challah bread. I felt so welcomed and was touched by his family’s hospitality. I had a wonderful time conversing with my students and our hosts parents and learned a lot about how Artsbridge changed their lives.
That evening, I explored the area around my hotel, Mamilla, and grabbed a quick bite to eat at a restaurant both recommended by my lonely planet guidebook and a helpful stranger. I then met a couple of my students for a movie- it was so much fun to socialize with them in their home setting and experience life as they do.
The next day I had a wonderful lunch and conversation with my boss about the previous day’s events and reunion. We talked about the dialogue, the upcoming reunion in January and plans for the 2009 Summer Camp. I was then picked up by one of my students and her younger sister to go to the Old City. We entered through the Jaffa Gate and met up with a few more of my students for a short, but necessary tour. The city was overflowing with tourists and the sun was soon to set, so we caught glimpses of some of the architectural sights and walked through the bustling market places.
The next morning I headed downstairs to meet my boss and help set up for the reunion. At about 10:15 kids started arriving- it was surreal seeing all of my students from the summer! We mingled and caught up and then began a dialogue session. The kids shared about what it has been like for them since being at Artsbridge, their views on the current state of the Israeli/Palestinain conflict and what they have carried with them and what they hope to be reminded of. It was clear that they missed having these intense and enlightening conversations, and they all took full advantage of the opportunity to share and reminisce. The dialogue sessions at Artsbridge, while tense and highly emotional most of the time, became a safe haven for the students to speak, listen and observe. They became so used to participating and having the sessions as a forum for discussion over the summer, that it was extremely comforting for them to circle up during the reunion and resume the tradition.
After the reunion, a group of my students took me out to see some of the new city area. We went to one of the infamous Jewish market places, the Mahane Yehuda Market, a bargain emporium for residents and place to hangout for local teenagers. The narrow paths are lined with spice and candy counters, vegetable stalls and small bohemian coffee shops. It began to rain so we sought shelter in a bakery and indulged in local sweets. We then went to one of the student’s homes for tea and Shabbat Challah bread. I felt so welcomed and was touched by his family’s hospitality. I had a wonderful time conversing with my students and our hosts parents and learned a lot about how Artsbridge changed their lives.
That evening, I explored the area around my hotel, Mamilla, and grabbed a quick bite to eat at a restaurant both recommended by my lonely planet guidebook and a helpful stranger. I then met a couple of my students for a movie- it was so much fun to socialize with them in their home setting and experience life as they do.
The next day I had a wonderful lunch and conversation with my boss about the previous day’s events and reunion. We talked about the dialogue, the upcoming reunion in January and plans for the 2009 Summer Camp. I was then picked up by one of my students and her younger sister to go to the Old City. We entered through the Jaffa Gate and met up with a few more of my students for a short, but necessary tour. The city was overflowing with tourists and the sun was soon to set, so we caught glimpses of some of the architectural sights and walked through the bustling market places.
I then left with my student and her sister to accompany them to their home in Bethlehem. We took a bus and then a taxi to the checkpoint. Crossing into Bethlehem we walked along a wall saturated with both liberating and empowering messages, and sad and hopeless declarations of oppression.
Upon arriving at the home of my student, we heated up her grandmother’s Maqluba (probably my favorite middle eastern dish!) for dinner. Maqluba is a dish made by layering vegetables (potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, cauliflower) and rice cooked with broth in a deep pot, and then flipping it upside down so that the savory rice is now the bottom layer. It comes as no surprise that Maqluba literally translates to “upside-down”.
When her mother arrived, they all took me on a drive through the town. We drove down many streets where favorite restaurants, historical buildings and shops were pointed out to me. The most impressive sight was the Church of the Nativity. It was staggering to realize I was standing at the very place that is believed to be the birthplace of Jesus. The church is large and while it looks historic, has been renovated time and time again due to the numerous attacks. Most recently, in 2002, it became a refuge for a Palestinian resistance force when Bethlehem was invaded by Israel. Despite being a target for controversy and conflict, the Church of the Nativity is the oldest continuously operating church in existence. My favorite part of this church is the ‘Door of Humility’, a humorously short door designed in the Ottoman era to prevent soldiers on horses from being able to enter. Here I am standing in front of it!
When her mother arrived, they all took me on a drive through the town. We drove down many streets where favorite restaurants, historical buildings and shops were pointed out to me. The most impressive sight was the Church of the Nativity. It was staggering to realize I was standing at the very place that is believed to be the birthplace of Jesus. The church is large and while it looks historic, has been renovated time and time again due to the numerous attacks. Most recently, in 2002, it became a refuge for a Palestinian resistance force when Bethlehem was invaded by Israel. Despite being a target for controversy and conflict, the Church of the Nativity is the oldest continuously operating church in existence. My favorite part of this church is the ‘Door of Humility’, a humorously short door designed in the Ottoman era to prevent soldiers on horses from being able to enter. Here I am standing in front of it!
We then drove to a beloved bakery to pick up some traditional favorites. I was absolutely exhausted upon our return and went to bed early to ensure I was well rested for the long trip back to Jordan that lay ahead of me. I woke up to a charming family breakfast- the whole family had been so generous with their time and for allowing me to spend the night, I was so overwhelmed with appreciation with the morning feast they prepared! They had made me American style coffee, porridge, eggs, sandwiches and traditional bread with spices and olive oil. A hot breakfast in good company was the perfect send-off back to Jordan!
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